HAITI

Almost by accident, we met Davidson. It was a pamphlet that Emma found on a day that was past the deadline to sign up. But we got in contact with him because he was the leader of a small trip going to Haiti. He himself grew up and lived in Haiti until college, where he is now studying in his last year in PUCMM in Santiago, DR. We met with him a couple times before we left and with a waiver release sign, 4350 pesos, and $60 us dollars we were set to go to where I had only dreamed I would ever be: Haiti.

Ever since I read Mountains Beyond Mountains (which all you blog fans out there should go read right now cuz its wonderful!) I have been interested in international development and Haiti specifically because it’s long, rich history and how yet it remains to be one of the poorest countries in the world. The Dominican Republic has many social and economic problems they are struggling with as we all know working and living within our communities, but there is a visible line between Haiti and the DR as you fly into the island. One side is lush and green, and the other brown and very much dead looking. I was interested in learning why things are the way they are and how the two countries that share the same island are so very different.

This past Friday, the hour arose (well we did but the sun didn’t). 5am we got up to get to the bus station at 6:30 to find out that the earliest bus that went straight to Cap Haitiano (our destination) didn’t leave until 11:30am. 5 hours to kill. Wishing we could have slept because we hung out with some guys on the swim team and some others from the program, we tried to decide if we should go home and sleep or what. Jaime’s dad was visiting and had gotten in the night before and so before we took him to another country we decided to show him the monument, Dominican coffee at my house, and elaine’s beautiful hostess self in our extra time. We went back by concho (the over-crowded public transportation cars of the DR), always an experience for a first timer before returning to the bus station. We were on our way, just a few hours behind schedule, which is something that you learn to deal with easily here in the DR.

After a brief stop at the border to fill out paperwork to get our visas we arrived. Our entrance felt like we were entering into a refugee camp. There were people all over: in the river you have to cross, in the street selling things in large bins the Hatians wear on their heads… Many children didn’t have clothes on. Everything seemed brown. It was a large brown field where nothing but a couple dead looking trees. It was strange. We were definitely attracting attention being a giant, nice coach bus filled with gringos- and I had a hunch it wasn’t good attention. People stared at us as we passed through. When we arrived in Cape Haitian, we took a tap-tap (public pickup truck with wooden benches in open back you climb into) through the pot-hole filled, bumpy, crowded roads from the bus station to our hotel.

I felt like I had entered into a new world. I don’t know if I can describe it exactly but there were people everywhere in the streets, walking and selling things and talking. The houses were all unfinished, half painted, crumbling cement or scrap metal walls. The road was so bumpy that taking pictures was almost impossible, not to mention felt inappropriate when everyone was still staring at you as you drove by.

Cape Haitian, the second largest city in Haiti has a population of 130,000 today. This city holds a very important place in Haitian history. We went to Broma, the place of the birth of Toussaint and also the sight of the last battle of the revolution of Haitian slaves, gaining Haitian Independence in 1804. Seeing the statues/ tributes in the dark because we were a few hours late was scary appropriate for Halloween!

On Saturday we traveled to the house of Davidson’s mom and his aunts house. Even though none of us could communicate directly it was a great experience going into their neighborhood and talking to them through Davidson. We went to the San Souci, the place of the palace of the first and only King of Haiti, Henry Cristof (during the time right after the revolution). We rode donkeys up a steep steep mountainside for a couple hours to arrive at the Citadel which the Haitian slaves had built during the revolution to lookout for French opposition that never actually came. 20,000 slaves died in the building of this giant castle/fortress which was made out of limestone, animal blood, rainwater and sugarcane- all by hand. It was spectacular. We got to climb to the top of the towers to sit at the top and eat a packed lunch overlooking the coast and entire mountainous countryside. It was bien Hermosa.

We went to a beautiful restaurant where I ate muro, a spicy rice and beans dish and also a goat soup which was very tasty. We went to a local discotec which was amazing and there was a giant latin dance competition and a presentation/ celebration for Dia de los Muertos (the day after Halloween which they celebrate the dead). The best dancing I have ever seen in my life- better than every tv show and movie and people I ‘ve ever seen! We also became familiar with their type of traditional music, compa. Amazing and we tried babancou, the local Haitian rum that is very strong and uniquely sweet because it is made of sugar cane.

We had a crammed ride home with like 20 people in a 14 person bus and more people who hopped a ride on the roof during our treck back to the border. Bumpy, cramped and uncomfortable is an understatement, but we were relieved to make it back safely and hear the familiar sounds of merengue and people speaking Spanish. It was an eye opening, rich experience which I will not forget for a long time to come.